makerod.pdf zip file
TO MAKE AND USE YOUR OWN DOWSER
by Jack Houck and Severin Dalhen
dowser is a devise that displays large movements which result
from extremely small movements in the hand, arm, and body of the
person holding it. There are many good books on dowsing (e.g.
References 1 through 3). There are many types of dowsers. It is
the authors' opinion that our minds are capable of accessing a
universal information system (called the "STU" in Reference
4) to obtain any desired knowledge. By being specific about the
desired information, by allowing your own analytical and conscious
mind to get out of the way, and by believing it is going to work,
the mind will channel the information back into your brain (i.e.
the brain acts as the tuner/receiver). The information will then
be processed by the brain which will activate the appropriate
muscles via the autonomic nervous system to display the information
(e.g. an answer to a question) by the movement of a dowser. Thus,
the dowser is a good devise for obtaining yes/no answers to questions
that you do not consciously know the answers. Correct answers
are available, even if you never knew the information and even
if the answer is not available in the same part of the world (i.e.
distance does not seem to matter). Two types of dowsers will be
discussed: the pendulum and the Japanese wand.
A pendulum can consist of any lightweight object
connected to the end of a string or chain. For example, a small
stone or crystal attached to the end of a neck chain doubled in
half makes a nice pendulum. Any kind of necklace can be used as
dowser. Recently the authors made 200 pendulums for a large PK
Party (Reference 4) out of eight‑inch pieces of string and
three - quarter inch diameter plastic balls (found in macramˇ
stores at ten cents apiece).
Simply hold the end of the chain or string such
that you do not induce a preferred direction for the pendulum
to swing. Ask it to show you how it will indicate "yes"
(each dowsing device may have a different preferred direction
for yes). Once a clear direction is indicated, ask it to stop,
and then ask it to show you the direction of "no". Usually
the direction of no will be in the opposite direction as yes (i.e.
if yes is a clockwise motion, no will be a counterclockwise motion).
Pendulums can be used to point in a desired direction. For example,
hold the pendulum and ask it to "swing in the plane that
includes the hidden object." The pendulum will eventually
swing in the correct direction. Be patient and try not to evaluate
what is happening. Also be aware of your internal senses because
you may also get a mental picture or hear a sound that will help
you find the hidden object. You can even find mineral deposits
by holding the pendulum over a map. Draw a line on the map under
the plane being defined by the swinging pendulum and then hold
the pendulum at another location over the map and repeat the process.
The intersection of the lines will establish the point on the
map. Don't hesitate to cut us in if great wealth is found!
Japanese Wand dowser is extremely sensitive to the minute muscle
twitches that make the dowser move. Almost everyone achieves success
using this type of dowser the first time they try. These dowsers
are also used at PK Parties to determine if the silverware is willing
to bend. Figure 1 illustrates how to hold a Japanese dowser. You
cradle it in your fingers, point your thumb toward the coil, and
press down on the top of the
handle with your thumb. Then simply ask it to show you a yes, then
a no, and you are ready to obtain yes/no answers to any questions.
1 Holding Japanese Dowser
following materials are needed to make a Japanese dowsing rod:
A stiff copper pipe 14 inches long and 1/2 inch in diameter.
A 3 foot length of 1/16 inch (#504) piano wire (available in hobby
and some hardware stores).
Two copper end caps that will enclose the 1/2 inch diameter copper
A 3/4 inch diameter wooden bead (available from macramˇ stores).
following tools are useful in making these dowsers but there may
be ways of getting around needing all of the tools:
Long nose pliers
Paper towels to wipe up spills
Electric drill (optional)
Metal file or grinder
2 illustrates dowser dimensions. The following steps are used
to manufacture a single dowser (for mass production, use your
2 Japanese Dowser Dimensions
1. Place the piano wire in the vise with 9 inches of the wire
exposed on one side. Bend the exposed 9 inches into a sharp 90
degree bend. Pound the bend with the hammer on a hard surface
to make it a sharp right angle. Remove the wire and secure the
14 inch piece of copper pipe in the vise with approximately 6
to 8 inches extending. Then, using the vise grips, clamp the 9
inch end of the piano wire to the top of the copper pipe extending
from the vise as shown in Figure 3. Make sure the wire is clamped
securely to the pipe. Then very carefully, bend the long end of
the piano wire around the pipe 4 1/2 times. Do this slowly and
keep the coil tight against the pipe as you wind it around. It
is OK to use your
ability to soften the wire as you are bending it around the pipe.
When you release the wire after 4 1/2 wraps around the pipe, it
will uncoil a little resulting in three loops in the coil. Now another
right angle must be put in the wire. Using the long nose pliers,
hold the end of the coil at the bottom (i.e. same position as the
9 inch straight end of the wire). With the other pair of pliers,
bend the wire 90 degrees such that the two straight sections of
the wire are aligned.
3 Coil Winding Setup
2. Cut a 6 inch length of copper pipe for the handle with the
3. File the edges on the end of the pipe smooth. A grinder is
useful for mass production.
4. Drill a small hole through the center of the one of the copper
end caps to act as a guide.
5. Put the 9 inch end of the wire through the hole in the copper
end cap, starting into the outside of the end cap.
6. Place the other copper end cap on the copper handle and use
some epoxy glue to make it permanent.
7. Put the end cap, with embedded wire, into the copper handle
such that the wire touches the bottom.
8. Mount the handle into the vise vertically with the closed end
down. Now mix a large amount of fiberglass resin. Pour the fiberglass
resin into the open end of the handle to the top of the handle
and slide the end cap with the hole in it down the wire and place
over the top end of the handle. This seals the handle so that
the fiberglass resin can not leak out. Let it dry.
9. Pour the fiberglass resin in slowly so that air bubbles can
escape and you can see when it is getting close to the top. Be
very careful not to overfill or permit the resin to leak down
over the handle. Paper towels may be necessary.
10. Use a knife to trim and fiberglass resin remaining outside
the handle and to scrape any epoxy or fiberglass resin off the
11. Clamp the end of the wire in the vise with 1/2 inch of the
wire extending vertically up through the vise. Put a piece of
waxed paper over the top of the vise. Poke a small hole through
the waxed paper for the wire. Keep the hole as small as possible.
Center the wooden bead around the wire. Then mix some epoxy to
fill the hole in the bead. A toothpick is handy for putting the
epoxy into the hole. Fill up the hole and hope it does not leak
out the bottom. You can always top it off later. Sometime a hot
glue gun is used for this step.
12. When the epoxy is dry, remove the dowser from the vise and
clean it up. The knife might be useful to chip off any epoxy around
the base of the wooden bead. Copper cleaner will bring a nice
shine to the handle. Spraying the handle with a plastic spray
will keep it looking nice.
13. Use the dowser in the same way as the pendulum.
Christopher Bird, The Divining Hand: The 500‑Year‑Old
Mystery of Dowsing, E. P. Dutton, Mew York, 1979
2. Christopher Hills, Supersensonics, University of the
Trees Press, Boulder Creek, Ca., 1975
3. W. Tromp, Psychical Physics: A Scientific Analysis of Dowsing,
Radiethesia and Kindred Divining Phenomena, Elsevier Publishing
Company, Inc., New York, 1949
4. Jack Houck, "Conceptual Model of Our Multi‑Dimensional
Nature", May 7, 1983